Acne and Black Skin
Acne Vulgaris is a common inflammatory skin condition that can strike at any period in your life.
Once thought a right of passage for teenagers in the throes of puberty, acne is now increasingly also experienced by adults giving rise to the term ‘Adult Acne’.
Acne can strike when you’re stressed, having major life upheavals or during periods of intense hormonal changes like pregnancy or menopause.
WHAT IS ACNE?
It is a functional disorder of the skin, caused by excess sebum (oil), sluggish dead skin cells, Cutibacterium acnes (C.acnes) - bacteria which already lives on the skin. Together these components cause sticky blockages in the pores and follicles that lead to congestion and inflammation.
Untreated, this is a recipe for blackheads, whiteheads, pimples and nodules both underneath and on the surface of the skin. Acne tends to develop anywhere on the body where that are plenty of follicles and sebaceous glands that produce oil - so think face, chest, back and shoulders.
There are also several external factors that also influence the development of acne. Lifestyle factors – stress, diet, sleep, hormones, skincare products, habits and regimes play a part as does environmental factors like pollution.
CULTURAL INFLUENCES ON ACNE
Research has noted that there are some cultural factors that can make people of colour prone to developing acne.
- Using shea butter and cocoa butter (or butters in general!) which tend to be heavy fat-based products. They can easily clog the pores, especially if you’re already prone to oily skin and breakouts.
- The use of hair products such as pomades that contain petroleum, mineral oil and heavy waxes all of which can affect the skin causing ‘pomade acne’ along the hair line. If you like laying down your edges, this is something to look out for.
- Heavy make up and concealers used to mask dark marks on the skin can also induce skin congestion and clogged pores because essentially complexion and colour products tend to be made from oils and waxes.
- In places were skin bleaching is popular, the use of corticosteroid products to lighten hyperpigmentation or the complexion in general can lead to ‘steroid acne’ because they make the sebaceous glands more prone to inflammation and infection.
TREATING ACNE
Acne can be very individual and so managing it is also a very individual process. There is no magic cure, so what works for one person make not necessarily have the same results for another. On skin of colour our evidence tells us that the concern lies with the resulting scarring and post inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Sometimes, this can be even more significant and cause more psychological distress than the acne itself.
Sadly acne can be a life long skin condition that flares up from time to time. However, with careful management, it can controlled. The treatment across all skin tones is broadly similar, however in skin of colour particular attention has to be paid to the increased risk of post inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
It can be a bit of tight rope - acne-busting regimes must be strenuous enough to clear the current acne as well as prevent future acne lesions but at the same time not too extensive that it causes further dark marks and patches on the skin.
A treatment plan may involve using an oral or topical retinoid product, high-grade cosmeceutical skincare, oral or topical antibiotics, professional treatments e.g. chemical peels, diet and lifestyle modifications and taking supplements. With so many products and brands available, the only way of knowing what's best for you is to consult a professional skincare specialist.
Some things to remember if you are currently experience acne:
Cleanse your skin properly twice a day using appropriate skin care products that contain salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide that relieve clogged pores.
Avoid using skin care products that strip your skin, as this will cause an imbalance in the physical and chemical barrier of the skin and trigger breakouts. Step away from products like black soap as it will cause unnecessary dryness.
Don’t skip moisturiser. Opting for a lightweight, oil free, non-comedogenic (meaning it doesn’t clog your pores) serum or lotion with ceramides or peptides is enough to replenish the moisture level in the skin.
Focus on gentle exfoliation using Alpha and Beta Hydroxy Acids to encourage optimal shedding of dead skin cells.
Include a retinoid in your skincare regime. This will help to control oil and also speed up the exfoliation of the skin.
Don’t pick at your skin as this spreads inflammation and causes more scarring.
Pay attention to your lifestyle and diet, especially your gut health. Repeated bouts of acne can be signs of an internal imbalance. Consulting a Wellness Practitioner or nutritionist may be helpful as well, but in the meantime focus on eating a balanced and colourful plate, gets plenty of rest, avoid stress and drink water.
Use sunscreen to prevent hyperpigmentation from worsening.
“Acne is so VERY individual and management of the condition varies from person to person, which means the best advice that we can give is to encourage you to visit a Dermatologist to receive a personalised treatment plan which can be developed after careful analysis of your skin. Sometimes even blood, allergy and hormonal tests are required before a plan of action can be implemented. Dermatologists are able to prescribe medication like antibiotics, Isotretinoin and Spironolactone that will help greatly, but have to be used under supervision.”
— Black Skin Directory